How To Convert Your Bike to Tubeless Tires
- Randy Reek, The Great Out There
- Jul 26, 2023
- 14 min read
Updated: 6 minutes ago
There really are no DOWNSIDES to going tubeless. Here are the EASY tips to convert to tubeless tires.
I just converted my mountain bike to tubeless tires. I have converted several road bikes, gravel bikes and fat bikes to tubeless. i recently converted two sets of wheels that were extra easy - and this got me thinking about passing along what has worked for me. Let me help you avoid the mistakes I've made in the past converting my bike tires to tubeless.
There are TWO main motivations for me to convert my bikes to tubeless tires:
1. While I live in Wisconsin, I make regular trips to the Southwest - especially in the winter months. I enjoy a break from Winter and the chance to mountain bike in the breathtaking scenery. From Texas across to southern California, much of desert Nevada and Utah nearly every growing plant has thorns! The self-sealing properties of tubeless tires overcomes at least 90% of the tiny punctures from cactus and tree thorns.
2. I also like to use my bikes for overnight camping trips. Besides weeklong road tours like RAGBRAI, I enjoy short trips to quiet backwoods destinations by gravel bike, mountain bike, and fat bike. Nothing spoils a day like a flat tire in the hot sun, being bombarded by deer flies, and keeping an eye out for poison ivy in the roadside ditch. Tubeless tires help eliminate flats from tiny punctures by car and truck tire wire debris, broken glass, and the occasional random nail.
There are other advantages of converting your bike over to tubeless tires.
Competitive riders notice the reduced weight. Eliminating weight from the moving wheels requires less energy to accelerate and maintain speed. I always feel that the lighter tubeless wheels are like gaining one higher gear! The recreational rider will also be able to ride longer and further.
Tubeless tires allow you to ride at lower tire pressures. If you ride unpaved roads, you will both have better traction and increased comfort. Gravel riders have a saying, "Smooth is fast." It's counter-intuitive, but this means that softer, smooth-rolling tires will actually increase your speed over rough roads that cause fatigue and pain on rock-hard tires.
Your local bike shop can complete the tubeless conversion for you. But I encourage you to learn howe to convert your own tires to tubeless.
Removing your wheels, installing tires, adding tire sealant, and monitoring your tire pressure are basic skills that every rider needs. In the process, you will gain the confidence to tackle longer rides and help others when they suffer a flat!
Step One: To convert to tubeless tires, first make sure that your tires and rims are "Tubeless Ready".
Chances are that your bike was not sold with tubeless tires and sealant installed. Bike brands normally ship new bikes with inner tubes. The new bike may have "lived" in a box for many months before you took it home. In addition, the manufacturers know that most riders (90%) will never convert their tires to tubeless so inner tubes are installed as standard equipment.
Before you can start, the first step is determining if the stock tires and rims are Tubeless Ready.
Unlike the standard tire and inner tube, a tubeless-ready tire has a bead that locks into the matching groove in the tubeless-compatible rim. If this is the case, both the rim and tire should have markings or labels for TR (tubeless-ready) or TCS (tubeless compatible system.)
Another clue is when you let all the air out, the tire remains locked onto the rim. If in doubt, check with your local bike shop. A knowing eye can tell at a glance if the rim and tire have the required interlocking designs of a Tubeless Ready package.
It is unlikely that you will find either TCS tires or rims on low priced bikes. A new set of TR wheels and tires will probably cost as much as a low price bike - so IF this is an important feature, choose your bike accordingly.
In many cases you will find that the RIMS are tubeless ready - but the TIRES are not!
Since most riders don't know the difference, manufactures can save a buck installing the cheaper tires. Yes, you can run tubes in both types of tires. This also means that you should keep your inner tubes for spares AFTER your complete the tubeless conversion process in case of a major tubeless flat!
IF you have TCS rims but the stock tires aren't tubeless-ready, you will need to buy a new set of TR tires. You need BOTH the rims and tires to match to make the conversion to tubeless.
IF you need to buy a new set of Tubeless Ready tires (or are installing new tires with a different width or tread pattern) I strongly recommend that you FIRST reinstall the inner tubes.
New TR tires are typically folded in the package or hanging on a peg. They are not round and full of wrinkles. You will save a lot of headaches when seating the tires later if they have first been stretched and seated on your rims.
Pump up the tires to the maximum pressure and leave them for a few days. Even better, ride them for a week or two. Inflate and deflate the tires a few times to stretch the casings and form a tire lock on the rims. With a little time and patience, Step Four below will go much smoother!
Step Two: If you have determined that your new bike has Tubeless Ready rims and tires, but it is also currently equipped with inner tubes, the next step is to remove the wheels from the bike, then remove the tires and tubes from both wheels. Also remove the old rim strip inside the rims.
Thoroughly clean the inside of the rims. You can use denatured alcohol, brake cleaner, or lacquer thinner - just don't use anything that will leave an oily residue like WD-40. When the inner rims are "squeaky clean" we first need to cover all the holes for the spoke nipples. This requires applying a layer of tubeless rim tape.
Purchase tubeless sealing tape that is 2mm WIDER than the interior width of the rims. I have found that most rolls of tape allow me to apply two layers of tape on two rims.
You need to tightly seal the center of the rim over the spoke holes, then stretch the tape outward to the edge of the rim hook. Press the tape firmly, going around and around the rim until it is sealed and large air bubbles have been squeezed out. Check that the rim tape doesn't extend up into the bead lock area. Trim any overlap in this bead area with a razor knife.
This tape is thick, adhesive plastic that will create an airtight and water tight barrier over the spoke holes. Don't skimp here and try to use duct tape or packing tape - been there, done that, and suffered because of it. Remember, if the tubeless conversion process fails you will have to start completely over, with new tape and new sealant. That is, DOUBLE the cost, so do it right the first time!
Here is a video demonstration of installing tubeless rim tape:
Side note: I have converted dozens of wheels to tubeless. Only recently, I was amazed to find my new gravel bike was delivered with TCS tires and rims AND tubeless tape already installed under the stock inner tubes. Next, I bought a set of "summer wheels" for my winter fat bike - and these too were shipped with TCS tires and rims AND tubeless tape already installed under the stock inner tubes.
In both cases, I saw that ONE layer of tape had been applied - better than none! BUT - I always apply tubeless tape in TWO layers around the rims, so I added a second wrap of tape and the conversion process was completed effortlessly! (Thanks BikesDirect.com for the surprise bonus on this bike and set of wheels!)
OPTIONAL - without the tires, now is the easiest time to true your rims!
Step Three: Install new tubeless valve stems in the rims. Locate the valve stem hole in the rim and puncture a hole with an awl or sharp pick.
Next, I find it easier to use a small round file to create a smooth hole in the tubeless tape that matches the rim. Disassemble the valve and press the stem into the hole. Then add the O-ring and the lock nut. Some valves have a hex hole at the base so you can hold the stem tightly while you thread on the lock nut. The goal is to press the valve stem as firmly into the inner rim while tightening the lock nut, eliminating any leakage at the hole you just created!
Once the valve stem is installed, you can remove the inner core in preparation for the sealant to be added later.
Step Four: Seat the TR tires on the rims.
Install the tires on the rims. Pro Tip: Position the logo on the tire at the valve stem. This is purely cosmetic (although it does help you locate the tire valve at a glance) but experienced bikers will recognize your attention to detail. MOST importantly, make sure that the tire rotation marked on the sidewall is correct. Your tires have a subtle tread pattern designed for traction in one direction.
"Seating the tires" means that the beads on the tire interlock with the grooves in the rims. In theory, it is possible to seat the tires to the rims with just a hand pump, at least small volume 700C tires. But it is MUCH easier to accomplish this task with an air compressor. You need a quick blast of air to expand the tire 360-degrees around the rim and mate the beads on both sides. Larger 650B tires and all MTB tires need a huge volume of air to seat the bead.
With the uninflated tires installed on the rims, spray both sides of the tire bead and rim with very slightly soapy water. This will help the tire slide into place and immediately show where any air leaks occur. The goal is to get the tires to lock onto the rim before you start adding messy fluid!
I use an air nozzle to add the blast to the rim. No threaded connection - I just hold the nozzle over the valve stem (with the inner valve core removed) and give it a series of short ONE SECOND blasts. The tire will inflate like a balloon and either lock onto the rim or blast air from the circumference of the tire.
If the tire inflates and seals, continue to hold the nozzle on the valve stem and give it one more short blast. Now look for the side wall to be even all the way around the rim on both sides. You might see the sidewall slowly expand as the tire stretches and locks onto the rim. It will also make a SCARY POP when it seals!
WARNING! You can easily BLOW the tire off the rim in a few seconds with a high pressure air compressor! Add air to the bike tire in TINY shots! If the tire is expanding but stuck in one spot, simply release the pressure, spray the rim in the stuck area with more soapy water, and start again.
As recommended previously, if you have inflated the new TR tires with inner tubes for at least 24 hours, the casing will be nice and round and the bead already stretched to match the rim. Inflation should be much easier!
Step Five: Add half the recommended amount of tubeless sealant.
Success! The tire is mated to the rim but uninflated. I carefully hang the rim on a wood slat clamped in my bench vise. You can also hang the rim from a length of stiff wire or cord.
Problem? If there is no bead lock, go to Trouble-shooting below.
Prepare your liquid sealant. Narrower 700C road bike tires typically require only about two ounces (60ml) per tire. Larger MTB tires will require 3 or 4 ounces, and huge fat tires may need even more tire sealant. Shake the bottle well because the important solids will have settled to the bottom. Then use the application syringe to draw out HALF of the recommended volume. If you bought the sealant in a small squeeze bottle you are ready to add it to the valve stem.
You are going to be added liquid to a flat tire and there is nothing preventing the liquid from spilling out. You need to position the rim with the valve near the bottom. Double check to insure that the tire is still evenly positioned around the rim. Either insert/attach the tube from the syringe to the valve or press the squeeze bottle to the valve stem and add the liquid.
With the first dose of sealant added to the flat tire, if you are concerned about the bead lock you can carefully use the compressor to reinflate the tire and seat the bead. Again, the tire will inflate and lock onto the rim. As soon as you remove the air gun, it will deflate but this process confirms that the tire is sealed around the rim.
If you have a good seal, carefully add the remaining tire sealant. Now you are ready to reinstall the valve core. Thread the core snugly into the valve stem, then unscrew the top of the Presta air valve. At this point, I prefer to use my floor pump instead of the compressor to inflate the tire.
Connect the hose to the valve stem and pump vigorously while watching the gauge. If everything is working properly, the tire will remain locked and the pressure will rise steadily. Pump up the tire to about 75% of the maximum pressure.
Remove the pump and examine both sides of the tire, noting any obvious leaks where the sealant is bubbling out. Hold the tire flat and rotate it around and around, sloshing the sealant against the leaks on the inside. Turn the wheel over and slosh the sealant around the other inner rim surface.
If you only have a few tiny bubbles popping up where the tire meets the rim, at the valve or a spoke the sealant should do its job and clog the leaks. Rotate the tire vertically and horizontally a few times. If possible, set the tire in the hot sun to help seal tiny leaks.
If you don't see any leaks, inflate the tires to full pressure. Then it is best to install the wheels on your bike and go for a short ride, just around a few blocks. This will make sure that the sealant gets evenly coated on the inside of the tire casing.
When you put the bike away, hang it off the ground if possible. First inflate the tires to full pressure - or even 10 psi OVER full pressure while it is being stored. Don't be surprised that the pressure is low the next time you go for a ride. It make takes a few cycles of inflation to fill every microscopic air leak, especially in tires with paper thin sidewall casings.
In a few cases, I have been surprised to find a completely flat tire days later. There was no visible leaked sealant or clues to the flat? Once, the problem was caused by a bad valve core. Another time, it apparently was simply a thin casing - and I needed to remove the valve core, add another 50 ml of sealant and reinflate.
Here's a video from Stan's that shows the sealant and inflation process - in the BEST case scenario! Note that I prefer to cautiously add only half the sealant until I'm sure the bead is going to lock. Then I add the other half, and inflate only with my floor pump to prevent a huge mess and wasted, expensive sealant.
Trouble-Shooting! IF the air is gushing out of major leaks around the rim or at the valve or spokes, you have more work to do!
If your tire just blubbers from the escaping air, first inspect the tire to make sure that it is evenly positioned around the rim. Recheck that there are no bumps of rim tape on the inner locking rim surfaces. Make sure that there are no kinks or rubber bumps on the tire bead. You can use small tire levers to pull and pry the sidewalls outward to the rim. Once the tire is even around the rim, don't push it down on the workbench and lose this position. Carefully hang the rim before you try inflating it again.
Try spraying the beads on both sides of the rim with more mildly soapy water. Go around the rim and position the tire evenly on both sides.
If this doesn't work, the tire is either out of round or just too stiff to make even contact around the entire rim. I have had this problem with fat bike tires (and motorcycle tires.) Try to add more tension to the tire beads by compressing the center of the tread. I have used a flat canoe lashing strap. You could also use a few wraps of paracord. Others swear by using an old rubber rim strip or a few wraps of electrical tape. Whatever you try, the tension must be exactly around the center of the tire tread to exert even pressure outward to the tire side beads. Soak the sidewalls again with soapy water and attempt to inflate the tire.
Side note: If you have heavy, knobby bike (or motorcycle) tubeless tires, it's a good idea to pack one of these lashing straps with your tool kit. If you get a flat and loose the bead lock to your rim, this will help reseat the bead after plugging the tire.
Don't add more sealant until you get at least a momentary bead lock. Adding more sealant to an ill-fitting, oblong tire is just going to make a bigger mess and blow the sticky liquid over the wheel, you and the floor.
With patience, you may be able to identify the spots that are causing the air leaks. Keep pulling and prying the bead against the rim. Try pressing down on the workbench to add tension in the problem area. Wrap the tire and rim with duct tape. You might need another set of hands to manipulate the tire, rim, and compressor all at the same time.
Worst case - overcoming tubeless conversion problems.
The tire is seated on the rim but air - and sealant - is leaking from multiple locations. If the tires are leaking badly, the sealant doesn't have a chance of plugging the big gaps. Even if it seals momentarily, as soon as you hit a pot hole or try to increase air pressure, the fragile seal may be broken.
At this point, all you can do is start over. You are going to need to remove the tires, then hose off the sealant from the rims and tires. Inspect the problem areas and determine if the problem was the rim tape or a rough spot on either the rim or tire. In the WORST case, you might need to totally replace the offending tire. But before you replace the tire, try reinstalling the inner tube and riding it a times at full pressure.
I will admit that once I came up against a set of original equipment tires that were advertised as Tubeless Ready that simply were not. I wasted hours and dollars worth of sealant before finally giving up. I bought a fresh set of REAL tubeless tires and seated them on the first attempt.
SUCCESS! You have converted your bikes tires to tubeless. It took effort and expense, but you gained invaluable experience! Now you will enjoy better riding and fewer flats as the long-term payback.
If you have assembled the right combination of products, and if you have prepped all these components, the process of converting your tires to tubeless may take LESS time than reading this article! I hope these steps and tips make your tubeless tire conversion quick and easy!
Note: Feel free to mix and match brands (or generic) rim tape, valve stems, tire sealant, and tire tools. For example, I routinely choose Stan's No Tubes sealant or Orange Seal but I use a generic syringe and tube that extends inside the valve body. I use whatever rim tape is the best buy. I mix and match valve stems, choosing some based on length and others for the stem color.
Also note that you will need to add more tubeless sealant periodically. Watch when you inflate your tires. Unscrew the air valve and give it a light pop. Anytime you tap the air valve and don't see any evidence of moisture you should consider adding an ounce or two of sealant. Remember that your rubber tires are not 100% airtight and the sealant will dry out over time. I usually add sealant each Spring when I give my bikes the pre-season tune-up, and then mid-season as needed - especially if I notice sealant plugging any leaks.
